Through Teddington and onto London

It was another early start today, and 10 or 11 locks. We plan to reach Teddington at about 14h00 and will stay overnight there. I was quite emotional about it. For years we had discussed this trip; the UK leg and then onto France. It felt like it was never going to happen but we persevered and we finally said goodbye to Portsmouth and came round the bottom of England and up the Thames. On Friday 30 August 2024 we got to Teddington and as a complete co-incidence we would be back there 1 year later. It has been a mixed year and I didn’t want to spend too much time unpacking it all, but needless to say it felt like we had been on the Thames River for much longer than 1 year!

The weather decided to co-operate and it turned quite sunny. The lock-keepers on the other hand all seemed to take the day off, so it was a full exercise day for me but its not too bad in the sunshine. We ate while underway and we got to Teddington easily.

Patrick then asked “why are we waiting around?” He had a quick check on tides and times and suggested we keep going. We could get to Richmond lock for the tide (we can only go through that lock on high tide) and then it would be a few hours until we reached St Katherine’s dock. So we did just that. We had to hang around Richmond for about an hour for the tide and met up with a fellow boat festival traveller. He was heading to the show and so we travelled in tandem, which is always nice. We got to St Kat’s by about 19:00 and settled in. It was a lovely trip down, passing all the iconic buildings and parts of London that we only knew from “the land”.

Off to London Town and St Katherine's Dock

We were offered a space at the annual St Katharine Docks Classic Boat Festival this year. It is described as a yearly boating extravaganza with an expected 60 beautiful vintage and exquisitely preserved vessels. These include the war heroes, the Dunkirk Little Ships. This festival is something we have thought about doing for a few years now and we were keen to show Deux Poissons off in all her glory as well as have a close look at all those classic boats which have inspired us over the years.

It was going to be a 3 day trip to get to St Kat’s which is situated just below Tower Bridge and right in the centre of London (Oh and about 24 locks). Needless to say we were excited about this trip.

In true English style, day one was a grey miserable rainy day, only to be brightened up by a Pride Parade at one of the locks. It took about 12 hours to get from Reading to Maidenhead and 11 locks, which fortunately were almost all being operated by a lock-keeper. A seafood chowder was a welcome evening meal and an early night for the start of the next leg.

A little romantic weekend away aka engine test run

We left Reading today with our new engine, all happily fitted into her new home. The engineers have asked us to do an engine run and put 20 hours on the engine. They will then do a filter, oil change and an engine check. All I heard was …. go travel for a few days, enjoy the good weather, have a few BBQs and sip on plenty of chilled wine. Not one to argue, we complied.
Our plan is;
* Goring for an overnight
* Abingdon by Friday mid-day
* 2 days in Abingdon
* Back down to Wallingford for overnight
* Back to Reading for engine check and oil change.
5 locks to get there and then back. The weather is forecast to be good and we are looking forward to a little trip and taking time to explore these towns and villages.
We grabbed some provisions (including that wine) and set off about mid-day. The first lock, Mapledurham, was “crowded”. Well there were only 3 of us in the lock but most of our experience on the river this year is that we are the only ones in a lock, so it felt like a crowd. Perhaps we were not the only ones out to enjoy the good weather.
Half an hour later, we approached the next lock; Whitechurch, Pangbourne. The two boats that were in the Mapledurham lock with us, were tied up waiting to go into Whitechurch lock, along with four other boats! So we had to join the queue.
We had heard from lock-keepers that “in the old days” locks were crowded and people queued to get through, but this was new to us. We squeezed in behind a hire boat on the waiting pontoon and were brought up to speed on what the hold up was. The gates into the lock from upstream were jambed by debris – and more specifically a large submerged log. There was no way to get the gates open and even if they did, it would mean that the log would be floating in the lock. (No one wants to come up against a floating log!).
The lock-keeper had notified the people he should notify in a case like this and they had called on some divers, who were on their way. Estimated wait time – 3 hours. Patrick looked at the clock and me and before he could even open his mouth, I emphatically said NO, we are not turning back to Reading. We will wait until it’s cleared and enjoy our trip. Enough with the false starts…
So we waited, read our books and even had a quick nap, to be woken by the sound of boat engines starting. More than that the boat going past our windows was not a waiting boat turning around to head back, but a large boat coming through the lock. YAYYYYY.
We had to wait a little while longer as there was also a queue of boats on the other side but eventually we got in AND got out of the lock. The rest of the trip to Goring was uneventful, peaceful and calm – just like I like it. We got to Goring after 15:30 and secured a mooring on the side of the lock, with the weir not too far. I really love the sound of the water running over the steps of that weir, so I was happy to be there. And the view is really beautiful. After a few hours on board we were ready to a bit of exercise. (Only a bit). We got the bikes off the back of the boat, packed a few waterproof tops as it was looking gloomy now and headed off to explore a bit more of Goring and Streatley. It ended up being a full pub crawl through the two villages as we stopped 4 times on our route, at ALL 4 of the pubs in the villages. We were starving once we reached the last pub, The Catherine Wheel, and settled in for a pizza and another drink. It wasn’t a late night and we were back on the boat, happy and full of delicious pizza. We didn’t make it to midnight, so there were no birthday celebrations, but that could wait for tomorrow.

Decision made: Out with the old, in with the new

Engine problems…..After a lot of thinking, discussions, backwards and forwards on what to do next, we came to a conclusion – out with the old and in with the new. We just wanted peace of mind and be able to turn the key and the engine starts. Every time! And that meant out with the old engine (again) and in with a new one. Our existing engine is a Perkins 3654H and we believe she was fitted into the boat in 1971. This is not the upright, model and the engine lies on the side with access to most serviceable parts, but not all. The engine was rebuilt in 2019 and even then the engineers struggled to find spare parts for her. In fact, the rebuild involved a repair to two major corroded engine parts (sump and bell housing) as we could not find replacements parts. We were also warned that the oil scavenge pump for the engine was no longer available. There was also a persistent oil leak and we had resigned ourselves to the fact that this was going to be a weekly mop-up job...not ideal. Despite this, we felt (fairly) confident that we would be OK with this engine. Yes, we would be travelling with almost no access to spare parts should there be a problem and we had an oil leak. But it was a risk we were prepared to take as it felt we didn’t have a choice and this was effectively a new engine following a full rebuild.
But now we have a new problem and it involved a lot of white smoke from out of the exhaust and our confidence in the engine shifted. Patrick and the engineers could stab a guess at what it might be but it would take hours and possibly a lot of money to accurately diagnose and fix the problem and this is without addressing the oil leak. A diagnosis was going to involve taking the engine out and possibly sent away (somewhere?) to be diagnosed. The engineers said they could start having a look to get a view of what might be wrong, but it probably beyond their remit. They also repeated their concern/warning about not being able to find spare parts to do any work or parts for us to keep onboard as spares. So they gave us some time to decide what to do next.
What we really wanted was peace of mind. We wanted to be able to turn the key, knowing that she was going to start and we could move on and travel. Particularly in a foreign country. We decided that travelling with an old risky engine with no part numbers and reduced access to spare/replacement parts is not a game we wish to play.
So we dug deep and then deeper into our pockets and we decided to proceed with a new engine. Patrick and the engineers discussed options, considering the space and height restrictions of the engine bay and also what our requirements were. The decision was a Nanni 115, a 4 cyclinder turbo engine. Nanni was an engine Patrick had always had in mind should we have come to this very point. The beauty of this engine, besides being new and fitting in the engine bay, is there are no electronics, its just a simple diesel engine. It was also agreed to fit a thrust bearing, so the new engine will run smoother.
Once we got over the initial shock of the cost of this, we were excited to be moving in this direction. So we “pushed the button” and a new engine and all the extra bits were ordered.
The engineers got ready and they lifted out our very broken engine, which was a sad moment for us as we had tried so hard to keep her going and she had given us some fun adventures.
Once the engine was out we were made aware of two more issues that would have put halt to our trip, and again, before we even really got started. The engineers also showed us how corroded the exhaust manifold heat exchanger was and they estimated we only had a few hours of motoring left on this manifold.
Also, the engine was actually touching the bottom of the hull. We always knew it was a tight fit in the engine bay and Patrick had never been able to even slide oil-absorbing sheets between the engine and the hull. What we were not aware of was that the engine was rubbing away at the hull when running!
Looking back, I suspect our initial response to all of this must have been disbelief, but also a sense of relief and further commitment to a new engine.
So the planning and initial work for the fit of the Nanni began. Patrick spent a few days cleaning up the bilges and getting ready for a brand new engine. The existing bearers for the Perkins were too wide for the narrower Nanni. So new steel bearers were made, painted and fitted to the existing bearers. The fire extinguisher was removed and we are going to have to find a new space for it. It is attached to the front bulkhead and is wide and in the way. The Perkins had the exhaust on the starboard side, it ran up and over the starboard fuel tank and down the starboard side of the boat. The Nanni has the exhaust on the port side. So they are going to have to run the exhaust pipe round the back of the engine to join up with the existing exhaust.
A steel plate was needed for the thrust bearing, so that was measured up and the template sent away to be completed.
Fortunately the generator did not have to be moved, only taken out for the engine fitting but it could go back in the same spot. That would have been another huge job if it needed to be moved elsewhere. We will have to find a new spot for the generator battery though.
Once the new bearers were in, the Nanni was dropped through the roof to check that everything was dimensionally correct. Although the engine wasn't in the boat for long, it was exciting to see it in there, all shiny, new and blue.
Then she was lifted back out and the engineers got into the engine bay to start the proper fitting work. They first had to remove the shaft coupling that was there from the Perkins, in order to fit the thrust bearing. (At this point we should have KNOWN that we were in the quiet before the storm). Removing the old prop shaft coupling was proving to be almost impossible. After a long long struggle, the engineers finally got it off. It took hours of pulling, using gas heat, pulley plate and eventually an angle grinder. Then the problem exposed itself. The shaft was tapered. This problem was explained to me. The new thrust bearing had to be fitted on a square end of a shaft. It was not designed to clamp onto a tapered shaft. To be fair the engineers did explore a few options to overcome this problem… can the tapered end be cut off, creating a square? Not enough shaft left to reach the engine. Do the manufacturers have an “adaptor” for situations like this? No.

The outcome? A new shaft was to be fitted. This is going to involve lifting the boat out of the water with a crane, removing the old shaft and fitting a new one. They estimated a couple of hours and even discussed doing this shaft replacement while the boat was still in the slings of the crane!! That made sense to me because the boat could go straight back in to the water and they continue with the engine fit. Easypeazy!!
Enquiries were made as to how long for a new shaft to be delivered and also when would a crane be available for the lift. A little over a week!! Just as UK prepared itself for a heat wave and summer was starting to be a real summer. A summer where travelling on the river would be amazing, long warm days, BBQs, walks. I wanted to cry but also knew this was going to be worth it.
Into day 3 of waiting for a lift out, the engineers stopped by to talk about the exhaust. They had a conversation with the manufacturers of Nanni engines, the engine required a new exhaust. The current exhaust wasn’t fit for purpose. Besides being old, the new engine needed a bigger exhaust. (The old exhaust was a 75mm and Nanni needed 104mm). There would also need to be a water lock installed. This device collects cooling water when the engine is stopped, preventing it from flowing back into the engine and causing damage. It also acts as a muffler to reduce exhaust noise. To fit this larger exhaust pipe we were going to have to give access behind lockers, fridge, dishwasher and some of the cupboards, both in the saloon and galley. The exhaust runs behind all of these, down starboard side under the deck.
So the exhaust pipe and water lock were ordered and the beautiful new engine stayed safe in the workshop. Then we received a call to say we needed a new, larger exhaust tailpipe. As the back of the boat is shaped at a curve, we would not be able to buy one off the shelf, so the new one would need to be made to spec. All of this meant that Deux was going to have to be lifted out and placed on supports in the yard and the work would take longer than a few hours in the slings. Possibly a week of work (two to be cautious).
At this point I was ready to say goodbye to summer. I would watch it go by from the back of the boat, 3 meters high, in the boat yard.
And then it finally happened…. The crane arrived, the exhaust pipe, water lock, tailpipe and a lot of other bits all arrived. As well as the heatwave!!
The boat was lifted out and placed on supports in the yard. The engineers fitted pipes to our water outlets, so while we were on the boat, we could use the shower, hand basin and sink as well as the dishwasher. The toilets in the yard were only a quick ladder climb away, so we didn’t have to use the onboard toilet and fill the holding tank. We had access to electric and water so we were not completely hard done by. And the sunsets were really pretty from so high up. I also got really fit with every day climbing up and down the ladder – the hotter it got, the more beer was needed, the more toilet trips were required, the hotter I got = it was easy to see the cycle!
Over the next few days, the engineers got the prop and rudder off, with a lot of huffing and puffing – the summer temperature was really hot by now. The old shaft came out, the new one went in. The exhaust was huge but was fitted and the “destruction” of the lockers and cupboards wasn't too bad. This was not our first rodeo with Deux Poissons. We had lived through many dismantles and refittings so we took that in our stride. We took advantage of the boat being out of the water and did some jobs that were on our to-do list. I gave the galley cupboards a fresh coat of paint. Patrick replaced the salt water anodes with fresh water ones as we are spending all our time on rivers and canals. He did some paint patching on the hull. Same procedure as normal….. Once cleaned and any flaky paint removed, first coat epoxy, then a coat of underwater primer and then a coat of antifouling. Patrick also cleaned and polished the topsides while I varnished everything twice and repainted the cream decks.
The thrust bearing plate was fitted onto the bearers and the thrust bearing put in situ. The crane man was summoned back and Deux was slowly lowered back into the water.
After an hour in the slings and confirmation that all the water remained outside of the boat, the crane man was sent away. As much as I liked him, I didn’t really want to see him again.
Then the engine fitting was scheduled. A few days later the Nanni was lowered through the ceiling and settled into the engine bay. The exhaust fitting proved to be a challenge but once that was completed and all the other vital parts were fitted and connected, the start key was turned. She started first turn and both Patrick and I were amazed at how quiet she was. We could even talk to each other.
The generator still needed to be refitted and connected up, but we could manage without it (for now). We had a working engine! A quiet, reliable one. And the summer heat wave promised to continue for some time. So we agreed to a little test run the next day and then Patrick and I sat and planned a few days upriver. We will need to come back to have the oil checked and replaced and generator re-fitted but we were so pleased to get away for a while!

Deja Vu: Reading to Caversham and back to Reading.

With our visa applications submitted and paid for, we decided to say goodbye to Reading Marina and start heading down the river. We are looking at about a week or two to make our way down to Teddington and onto Richmond lock. We would then be on the tidal part of the Thames and we would take the tide through London. As it would be unlikely that we hear back from the French Consulate about our visas by the time we were through London, we plan to travel on the Medway for a few weeks. Once we hear about our visas (and hopefully that is positive outcome), we will decide whether we “pop” over to France for a few weeks or remain on the rivers in UK this year and do France next year.
So with sunny weather ahead we invited friends to join us on board for a few days as we leave Reading and make our way down river. We said goodbye to all the wonderful people at the marina, they had been amazing with helping us get the gearbox fixed and refitted and also look after (winterise) Deux Poissons over winter.
It appeared they were either wishing us a great future and trip OR were thrilled to see us leave. Either way, they really made an effort - flags, well wishes, trumpets - waving us goodbye from the marina which had started to feel like home. We promised to keep in touch and while we were sorry to say goodbye to such great people, we really looked forward to getting going on our trip.
We cast off, waved goodbye, charged our glasses and got chatting about the next few days ahead. As we approached the first lock at Caversham, which was self-service, Patrick gave a brief lesson on how to operate the locks. We tied up outside the lock and Patrick and friends walked over to fill the lock and open the gates. My friend walked back to the boat to help me bring the boat into the lock. As she approached the boat, she asked me “Carol, is that normal?” and pointed to the extensive, terrifying amount of smoke pouring out the exhaust pipe and filling the waiting area. My heart and stomach dropped. I switched the engine off immediately and shouted for Patrick to get back to the boat.
I explained what I had seen and he started her up, with disbelief, I am sure. More smoke and it just kept on coming. He opened up the engine bay and had a look inside – at what?? I have no idea.
So a call to Reading Marine Services to explain that there was a “slight” problem. They sent down a tow boat and within 10 minutes we were back on the same mooring! The flags and bunting still attached to the railings from our goodbye shout-out! The engineers promised to be down on Monday and have a look. Best case scenario – injectors. And those could be replaced and we could set off again, keep the champagne and all the flags and bunting hadn’t gone to waste.
Worst case scenario – replace the engine. I wasn’t sure what that meant with regards to the champagne.
In the meantime, we tied the boat up and made the best of a really sh*t situation. We used the marina dingy and went across the river to the grassy bank, the one we had first tried to tie up all those months ago, when the gearbox gave up.
We took all our BBQ stuff and plenty of drinks and ice and enjoyed the evening, looking at the boat from across the river. All the flags and goodbye paraphernalia still tied along the fence.
What would tomorrow bring?

Visa Applications - the beginning of our travels

The idea was to cross over from Dover to Calais, France, and then spend the summer months exploring France, Belgium, Holland and possibly back to France. With no need to rush, we would take our time and stop anywhere that suits us, take our time to explore and enjoy the adventure and the long summers.
Now Brexit meant we had 90 days (3 months) to travel and then we would need to leave the boat somewhere for 180 days (6 months) and return later to continue. That, however, leaves us returning in winter. A lot of the canals are closed for winter, never mind the miserable winter weather and this was NOT part of our plan. So we would need to return the following summer, a year later, and do 90 days again. The thought was soul destroying and not what we wanted to do at all.
So after some online searching, I was so pleased to discover that France would allow long stay holiday visas, if you met an extensive list of conditions. I also discovered that some of the boating communities had applied for and been granted these long stay visas, despite not having a fixed address while in France. I was so grateful to find that there was a lot of guidance and advice on line, so I settled in to start the process. I will forever be grateful to The Cruising Association for their comprehensive YouTube tutorial and advice.
It was long…… there were two on line application “forms” per person. One is the application on the French Visa site and the other is on the TLS contact site (a government organisation site). They both comprise a number of pages and much of the information required is repeated but they don’t appear to be linked so you need to fill them both in.
The supporting documentation required is another story…. Click here for that list
We also needed to do a trip into central London, for an interview at the French consulate and needed to go through a booking application for that appointment.
I took my time, a lot of breaks and breathing exercises and finally got the applications completed, paid for and appointments booked in London.
Now being back in London, if only for the morning and the appointment was such an interesting experience. We have been living on the boat for so long now that we had clearly acclimatised to a slow pace and minimal social interaction. We were not prepared for crowded train stations and busy streets with impatient people rushing to get somewhere.
We got to the consulate early and joined the queue and were seen without much wait. We were required to show all the supporting documentation and a short discussion on our plans. Then it was back on the train, back to the boat and our quiet life. We would have to wait now for a few weeks to hear back – they may have some more questions, deny the application or grant us visas.

En-route to Oxford

Now we have completed a few successful and really enjoyable runs up and down the river, we decided to do the much anticipated and discussed trip to Oxford.
We had a lovely trip chatting, working the locks, dodging trees in the river and taking turns at the helm. The weather was beautiful and we loved being on the Thames River.

Friends joined us for a river run

After our day run yesterday, we really wanted to go away for a few days. We wanted to finish what we had originally started before the gearbox drama – a trip up to Oxford and then make our way back down the river Thames. We also needed to work on our long stay French Visa applications (which I believe is a paperwork nightmare). But today we have friends joining us for a whole day and we are really looking forward to catching up. While we love getting away from UK winters and going to sunny Cape Town, its a long time to be away from friends. Patrick is dying to chat “boat / bilges / holding tanks / engines, with a fellow sailing buddy. I am dying to catch up on all the gossip I have missed.
We left Reading Marina at a sensible 10:00am (ish) and worked our way up through Mapledurham lock and then Pangbourne lock. We stopped for lunch at the Swan Hotel and pub; we tied up alongside the bank and garden of the pub, so it was perfect and the food was delicious. Afterwards we made our way up to Goring but didn’t go through the lock as we had to still make our way back down to Reading as our friends were not staying overnight.
The lock keeper at Goring also had the facility to provide us with a river licence, for the month of May. We didn’t need it for longer as we are planning to be off the Thames and possibly on the Medway or even in France by June. So we are excited to be moving in that direction.
It was a lovely day and the boat went well, which is always a relief with her. I mostly forgot about that visa application.

A little run up the river

With the boat all unpacked and ready for action, we did a little day run today, through one lock and back to Reading. We looked forward to moving on the river after being tied up on the mooring for so long and appreciating nature, especially all the new baby geese and swans.
We were checking that the gearbox was all happy and in working order as we have friends joining us tomorrow for a day trip. It also gave us (me) the opportunity to activate the muscle memory necessary to work all the ropes in the locks. It was a good day and fortunately the muscles required to lift wine glasses are the same muscles used to throw ropes so it was also a successful day.

We are back...

Even after an 11 hour flight and all the airport waiting time before and after, we still felt energised to get the boat back to a liveable state. The boat cover and the winterising procedure carried out by the marina left the boat completely dry and “key-start ready”, as promised. However, moving back onto the boat always takes longer than we thought it would take, so after two solid days of unpacking and “refitting”, we were ready to finally relax.
The river flow had subsided and the sun even threatened to show its face for more than a few hours. After 6 months in sunny Cape Town, we could live with the cloud and occasional sunshine for now, but we were so happy to see no “red boards”.
We decided we would do a little day run next Friday, a test for the gearbox and engine and friends joining us the following day so we are really looking forward to being out on the river.