The Union-Castle Connection

Sometimes the most interesting stories are the ones you discover completely by accident.

Back in 2022, while we were on holiday in Cape Town, I spent an afternoon browsing through a small thrift shop. At the time, Deux Poissons was in the final stages of her restoration and I was looking for something special to hang on the walls. I had collected a set of vintage brass frames and wanted some artwork that felt both nautical and authentic – something that suited a classic gentleman's cruiser rather than a modern boat.

After rummaging through boxes of old books, photographs and postcards, I came across a bundle of vintage Union-Castle Line postcards. The familiar ships immediately caught my eye. They seemed perfect for the boat, so I bought the collection without giving it much more thought.

It was only later, when I showed them to my parents, that the real story emerged.

Both of my parents were born in the United Kingdom and, as young children, travelled to South Africa aboard Union-Castle ships when their families emigrated to Cape Town. My father travelled on the Cape Town Castle, while my mother made the journey on the Pendennis Castle. Until that moment, I had never known this piece of family history.

When I showed Patrick my treasures he recalled that his father had also travelled on the Union-Castle Line, journeying on the Windsor Castle from Cape Town to study in Ireland as a young man.

What had started as a simple search for vintage artwork suddenly became something much more meaningful. The postcards were no longer just attractive nautical prints; they were part of our family's stories.

Today, six of those Union-Castle postcards hang on the “walls” of Deux Poissons. Visitors often comment on them, admiring the elegant liners, but for me they represent something deeper – a connection between generations, continents and journeys.

The story became even more interesting when I shared photographs of the postcards on social media. Friends began responding with stories of their own. Many had parents or grandparents who had travelled the same route between Britain and South Africa aboard Union-Castle ships. What I had assumed was a niche piece of family history turned out to be a shared experience for countless families.

Then, last year, another unexpected connection surfaced.

While visiting my parents, they were clearing out boxes of old belongings and childhood treasures. Among the items destined for sorting was a pack of playing cards that had belonged to me as a child. The card box still had my name scrawled across it in unmistakably youthful handwriting.

When I opened the pack, I was amazed to discover that these were Union-Castle ship playing cards, handed to guests who travelled on the ships. The backs of the cards also had a picture of the RMS Pretoria Castle. I like to believe that the very same cards were used by my grandparents and their friends while underway.

I had spent hours playing card games with that pack as a child without ever knowing the significance of the images. Yet there they were again, turning up decades later, just as the postcards had.

Those cards now live aboard Deux Poissons too, tucked away in the drawers beneath the framed postcards. Every now and then they emerge for a game of Rummy or another old favourite, continuing a connection that stretches from childhood memories to family history, from Britain to South Africa, and now to life aboard our boat.

It's funny how some stories find their way back to us. A handful of postcards in a Cape Town thrift shop led me to a pieces of family history I never knew existed, and reminded me that journeys leave traces in the most unexpected places.


A wheel worth waiting for

For so long, our to-do list has been nothing but essentials, so it feels especially satisfying to finally get round to a job that was not all that urgent, only unsightly. The steering wheel was one of those jobs. It still worked perfectly well, it got us to some beautiful places, so it was easy to leave for another day.

But now that we were having critical work done and we had nowhere to go for a while and no need to steer, the wheel came off for a full strip-down. Patrick removed all the pitted, tired chrome and sent it away for re-chroming. The wheel itself was sanded back and given several coats of varnish, which brought the timber back to life. With the wheel removed, I also took the opportunity to sand down the wooden panels behind it and give those a few coats of varnish too — one of those jobs you can never do properly unless you have complete access.

Now that it is back together, we can see just how much difference it has made. The wheel has real character again: the traditional ship’s-wheel shape, the turned wooden spokes, the handholds and the gleaming metal rim all stand out once more, while the polished centre catches the light beautifully. Instead of looking tired and simply functional, it has become the focal point of the helm.

When the chrome came back, the wheel was reassembled, and now we only wish we had done it earlier. Still, good things do come in their own time. As for that long list… tick.

A Journey we never Expected

Towards the end of last summer, while Deux Poissons was peacefully tied up on a mooring in Abingdon, we experienced something every boat owner dreads – another boat ran into us.

It wasn't just a gentle nudge. The impact was a significant bump, and our front port-side handrail suffered the worst of the damage, with one section breaking completely. Fortunately, the owner of the other boat was insured, and we were able to gather everything needed for the insurance companies to agree to the claim.

The timing, however, could not have been worse.

Winter was approaching, and we were preparing to leave for South Africa for six months. Deux Poissons was already booked to be lifted onto the hard at our home marina and stored under cover while we were away. Any repairs would have to wait until our return.

When we eventually arrived back in the UK and settled once again into life afloat, it was time to make arrangements for the repair work. The insurance company appointed a boatyard to carry out the repairs, and when it was agreed that it would be Dennett Boat Builders, we could hardly believe our luck.

For anyone who appreciates classic wooden boats, Dennett's needs little introduction. The yard is renowned for its craftsmanship and specialist restoration work, including projects on the famous Little Ships of Dunkirk.

Years ago, when Patrick and I were planning the restoration of Deux Poissons, Dennett's was one of the boatyards we dreamed of using. We spent countless hours admiring the photographs in their gallery and following their work on social media. We spoke to other boat owners who had work done on their boats and heard nothing but praise.

At the time, however, it simply wasn't within our budget. With so much work needing to be done, we had to make difficult choices about where we could spend our savings.

Over the years, as we travelled on the Thames, we passed the boatyard several times. Each time, one of us would look across and say, "Imagine if..."

Now, incredibly, we were on our way there.

We chose the Bank Holiday weekend for the journey and planned four leisurely days to make our way down to Chertsey. As luck would have it, the UK was enjoying one of its rare spring heatwaves. The river and locks were predicted to be busy for a change, the skies were blue and the beers cold. It was going to be the perfect trip.

What had started as an unfortunate accident was beginning to feel like an unexpected opportunity. Sometimes life has a way of taking you somewhere you had only ever imagined, even if the route there is not quite the one you would have chosen.

And for us, that destination was Dennett's Boat Builders….


FRIDAY

So we set off late on Friday afternoon with full tanks of water and fuel, plenty of provisions on board, and enough food for several days. Our plan for the first leg was an easy, gentle one in the late sunshine and overnight at Sonning. We only had a single lock to negotiate — Caversham Lock.

Mentioned in the Domesday Book of 1086, Caversham was once known for the medieval Shrine of Our Lady, an important pilgrimage destination. It is a place steeped in history.

We have our own Caversham "Doomsday" story.

It was here, in May 2025, that our engine spluttered, coughed, bellowed out clouds of smoke and finally died. In that moment, all our plans to cruise to France came to an abrupt end. We had spent months preparing. We had finally received our long-stay French visas, packed the boat, studied guidebooks, and said our goodbyes to friends and family. We thought we were ready. Until we weren't.

Like many towns and villages along the Thames, Caversham has a fascinating river history. Records of river crossings and flash weirs date back to the 1400s. The original pound lock was constructed in 1778, while the current structure was rebuilt in 1875.
In 1960 - the same year Deux Poissons was “born” - Caversham Lock became the first lock on the River Thames to be fitted with a hydraulic gate operating system. Ironically, it was the one lock we never managed to pass through to start our French adventure.

This time, however, we were greeted by friendly lock keepers who opened the gates and waved us through. Deux slipped quietly into the lock, running smoothly and, most importantly, smoke free.

Less than three hours later we were tied up at Sonning, enjoying a beautiful summer evening. With a chilled glass of wine in hand, we chatted with neighbouring boaters and new friends who we met on the mooring, as the sun slowly disappeared behind the trees.

Saturday

We were up early the following morning and set off towards Cookham Village.

The river and locks were busier than we had experienced so far, and with it being a Bank Holiday weekend and temperatures forecast to exceed 25°C, we knew things would only become more crowded.

Our aim was to moor at a spot on the Cookham Village bank, one that we had used before, with easy cycling access into the village and its welcoming pubs. Before we could think about that, however, we had six locks to negotiate.

Each lock can take up to twenty minutes to pass through, sometimes longer if there are boats waiting from the opposite direction or if the lock has to be emptied and refilled before your turn. The upside is that there is rarely any rush. We spend the waiting time chatting to fellow boaters, many of whom we have already met at previous locks. Friendships often begin while waiting for lock gates to open.

If conversation runs dry, there is always a game of Rummikub, a few chapters of a book, or simply sitting back and enjoying life on the river and wondering if the building I am looking at is a house or a hotel. I often cant tell!!

The downside is that there are no guarantees when it comes to moorings. Most cannot be booked in advance, so you simply hope there will be space when you arrive. If there isn't, the backup plan springs into action — a quick check of the River Thames Guide app, combined with a careful eye on the riverbank for any suitable alternatives.

As expected, Cookham's popular moorings were packed, with boats rafted two and three deep. Fortunately, we found a quiet stretch of bank a little further along. We grabbed it immediately, hammered in our mooring spikes, and settled in for the evening.

Although it meant a slightly longer cycle into the village, the space was beautiful and peaceful. Later that evening we lit the barbecue and enjoyed steak and salad while the sun set, sipping on a glass of red wine

It is said that Kenneth Grahame, author of The Wind in the Willows, spent his childhood in the Cookham area and drew inspiration from these parts of of the Thames. Looking around us that evening, it was very easy to believe.

SUNDAY

We left our Cookham mooring before 9am, hoping to secure a space in Windsor for the night, before the crowds arrived.

By now the river was extremely busy, and finding a mooring was becoming increasingly difficult.

Although we only had four locks to pass through that day, they were among the busiest we had encountered. Several large wide-beam boats were travelling the same route, making lock manoeuvres particularly interesting.

The lock keepers are incredibly experienced and somehow manage to fit what appears to be an impossible number of boats into each lock. Even so, there were moments when I held my breath as we were waved inside. With our steel hull, I was less concerned about Deux Poissons than some of the fibreglass cruisers surrounding us as the water surged and swirled around the lock.

Patrick always has the final say on these things, and I trust that he will choose to wait for the next available slot rather thank risk a crush, but thankfully everything went smoothly.

We did spend quite some time waiting at one lock, but I won a game of Rummikub while we waited, so I considered the delay a complete success.

By setting off early, we managed to stay ahead of much of the Bank Holiday “traffic” and secured what looked like one of the last available spaces on Bath Island. With the boat safely tied up, we spent the afternoon enjoying the sunshine, reading, and cycling into Windsor.

That evening we stumbled across a wonderful Moroccan restaurant and enjoyed delicious food, warm hospitality, and the pleasure of dining al fresco on a perfect summer evening.

MONDAY

After a leisurely start to the morning and yet another glorious day on the water, we made our way through four more locks before arriving at Dennett Boat Builders.

Although it was a Bank Holiday, there were still several craftsmen working around the yard. From the moment we arrived, everyone was welcoming and accommodating. They helped us tie up, connected us to shore power, and then left us free to wander around and explore.

It felt slightly surreal to finally be there.

When we first bought Deux Poissons and began planning her restoration, we quickly realised that we would need the skills of experienced shipwrights and traditional boat builders. Time and time again, whether through online research, recommendations from other owners, or conversations on in our boat yard, one name kept coming up: Dennett Boat Builders.

Established in 1962, the family-run business has built a reputation for preserving traditional boatbuilding and joinery skills, restoring and maintaining some of the finest classic wooden boats on the Thames.

Unfortunately, at the time it was just something we could not manage. So for us, this was the boatyard that always sat firmly on our bucket list.

Over the years, while cruising the Thames, we had passed the yard several times. Every time we went by, one of us would inevitably say, "Wouldn't it be wonderful if one day..."

Now, quite unexpectedly, that day had arrived.

The circumstances that brought us here were certainly not the ones we would have chosen. An insurance claim following a collision was hardly the route we had imagined. Yet as we stood in the yard looking around at the craftsmanship, the beautifully restored boats and the skilled team at work, it was impossible not to feel grateful.

There is something rather special about watching people who genuinely love what they do. Everywhere we looked there were examples of traditional skills being practised with care, patience and pride. Wood that looked beyond saving was being transformed into something beautiful. Boats that had seen decades of service were being given a new lease of life.

For owners of classic boats, it is reassuring to know that places like this still exist.

As we settled Deux Poissons into her temporary home and reflected on the journey from the collision in Abingdon last year to Chertsey, even our false start to France in 2025, it struck us how often boating adventures take unexpected turns. What had started with an unfortunate collision had become a memorable four-day cruise through some of the loveliest stretches of the Thames, in the beautiful English summer, ending at a boatyard we had admired for years.

Not quite the journey we had planned, perhaps — but one we will remember for a very long time.

Otters, Owls and Old Post Offices

We woke up late and took our time easing our slightly broken bodies out of bed. It was probably a sign that we either needed to improve our fitness levels or choose smaller hills to cycle up. Still, nothing a good cup of tea and some toast couldn't fix.

After breakfast, we took a gentle stroll to the station to collect our family guests. The early afternoon was spent showing off Goring, followed by a delicious pub lunch before it was time to cast off and head towards Wallingford.

The journey was an easy one. We only had to negotiate two locks – Cleeve and Benson – giving our guests a gentle introduction to lock duty, with the promise of four locks waiting for them on the return trip on Monday. They also got their first taste of life at river pace, gliding through the countryside at four knots (about 4.6 mph / 7.4 km/h), with plenty of time to admire the scenery.

Shortly after Cleeve Lock, we passed a stretch of bank where we had moored overnight with friends last summer. It remains one of our favourite spots on the Thames. We shared stories of otters swimming around the boat at dusk and a magnificent barn owl silently hunting across the meadow as darkness fell. We promised ourselves we would return one day, hoping to witness the same magic again. And if not, simply to enjoy the peace, a beautiful sunset and a sundowner or two on the foredeck.

These are the moments we treasure most about boat life. They more than compensate for the less glamorous realities of boat ownership – varnishing, bilge cleaning, laundry, sanding, de-cluttering and, of course, more varnishing.

In less than three hours, we arrived in Wallingford and secured a mooring right in the town centre. Once settled, we set off to explore.

Like many towns along the Thames, Wallingford has a rich and fascinating history. Following William the Conqueror's victory in 1066, Wallingford Castle became one of the most important strongholds in England. The town flourished throughout the Middle Ages and later played an important role in ending the civil war, known as The Anarchy when the Treaty of Wallingford was signed there in 1153.

The centuries that followed were less kind. The Black Death reduced the population, and the town gradually fell from royal favour. However, Wallingford found itself at the centre of events once more during the English Civil War, becoming the last Royalist stronghold in Berkshire. After a sixteen-week siege, the town finally surrendered, and Oliver Cromwell ordered Wallingford Castle to be destroyed to prevent it being used in any future uprising.

Today, Wallingford is a thriving market town, full of independent shops, cafés and narrow side streets waiting to be explored (not by bicycle today). It also appears to have a remarkably busy Post Office. At least, that's what we thought until we discovered that most of the activity was centred around pints rather than parcels.

The Old Post Office, located just off the Market Square, occupies a Grade II listed building that once served as the town's main Crown Post Office. Following its closure in the late 1990s, it was transformed into a bar and restaurant. Many of the original features remain, including the Victorian counter, while a traditional red post box still stands proudly in the courtyard outside. Needless to say, it quickly earned a place on our Wallingford itinerary.

The evening passed pleasantly, catching up on family news, sharing stories and enjoying a delicious dinner and few drinks before retiring to Deux Poissons for the night.

Tomorrow, we turn downstream and begin our leisurely journey back towards Reading.


Through the Goring Gap

With a sunny and dry May Bank Holiday weekend forecast, we knew we had to make the most of it. Living in the UK has taught us that good weather is never to be taken for granted. To make the weekend even better, family were joining us for an overnight stay on Saturday, wherever we happened to end up. After a little discussion, we settled on Goring-on-Thames for Saturday night and Wallingford-on-Thames for Sunday, before returning to Reading on the Monday morning.

Goring is one of our favourite stretches of the Thames. Not only is it surrounded by beautiful countryside, but it is also steeped in history. Thousands of years ago, at the end of the last Ice Age, meltwater forced the River Thames through the chalk hills here, carving out what is now known as the Goring Gap. This dramatic landscape changed the course of the river, directing it through Berkshire and onwards towards London.

Today, the Berkshire Downs rise to the south while the Chiltern Hills stand to the north, creating a spectacular natural gateway through which the Thames flows. It is definitely an area of natural beauty and stunning to view from the deck of the boat when underway.

On either side of the river sit the twin villages of Goring and Streatley, linked by a bridge.

We always enjoy spending time here. There are quiet lanes to cycle, fascinating old houses to admire and beautiful churches tucked away. There are a few excellent pubs (four if I remember correctly) and these we appreciate even more after a day exploring on two wheels.

This weekend we decided to put our fitness to the test by cycling up the side of the Gap above Streatley. To be completely honest, "cycling" may be stretching the truth slightly. Much of it involved pushing our bikes up the steep chalk hillside while questioning our life choices. The climb was hard work, but as often happens, the reward was waiting at the top. The views across the Thames Valley, the Chilterns and the Berkshire Downs were simply breathtaking and more than justified the effort.

After a hair-rising speedy cycle back down the hillside, we returned to the boat and enjoying a well-earned shower and a short rest, dozing in the sunshine and reading. Word must have got around that we carry duck and swan food on board because before long we had two sweet little duck visitors venturing on to the deck of the boat. They became increasingly brave, getting ever closer in search of a snack.

That evening, we cycled back into Goring and popped into one of our favourite pubs for a delicious pizza and a well-earned drink. Afterwards, it was back to our floating home for a quick backgammon challenge before turning in for a very early night.

Family will be joining us in the morning as we continue upstream, through the Goring Gap and onto Wallingford. We are looking forward to sharing one of our favourite stretches of the Thames and enjoying the journey through the eyes of others.

Tonight, however, the combination of sunshine, fresh air and a long day outdoors has caught up with me. My eyes are ready to close.

She survived the winter!

We’re back from our annual “winter escape” — six glorious months in South Africa. We know how lucky we are to swap the UK’s long, cold, soggy winter for Cape Town sunshine, beaches, Don Pedros (a popular South African alcoholic milkshake) and proper summer living. Even better, we still have family and long-time friends there, so it’s not just an escape — it’s a reset. And thanks to remote working, we can just about pretend this is all perfectly normal behaviour!!

Of course, leaving the boat behind for half a year in unpredictable British winter weather is never completely stress-free. Our strategy is simple: do absolutely everything we can… and then cross our fingers.

Preparing the boat for winter is not a quick job. It’s a full three-day operation. If it can be moved, it gets vacuum-packed. Curtains come down, cushion covers come off, mattress covers disappear, and every bit of linen and clothing gets washed and dried. Even the books aren’t spared — they go into vacuum bags too. Moisture traps are tucked into lockers everywhere, and we leave the dehumidifier ready to run once a week for a few hours. By the end of it, the boat looks like she’s preparing for a very organised expedition to the moon.

She’s stored safely on the hard under a full canvas cover, and for the past two years we’ve trusted Reading Marine Services to take care of her while we’re away. They lift her out, winterise everything properly (including treating the water tanks, checking batteries and running the dehumidifier), and then reverse the whole process before we return — putting her back in the water, replacing the drinking water, and making sure the engine and generator are ready to go. It’s a huge reassurance while we’re thousands of miles away enjoying sunshine.

So when we get back, our job is simply to unpack the vacuum bags, rediscover the many moisture traps I somehow miss every year (they continue appearing for weeks), and settle back into boat life again.

I always find the winterising process long and slightly tedious, and I’m often tempted to skip the trickier jobs — especially taking down the curtains. But every time we return and hear just how wet and damp the UK winter has been, I’m very glad we made the effort. Once again: no mould, dry wood, and a fresh-smelling boat waiting patiently for us.

Now we’re ready for summer on the river again — and we can’t wait …..

what is a Don Pedro? Click here ...

Just one more small job .....

Boat jobs are never done….

We cleaned up and locked the boat down for the 6 months of winter. We are all packed up and ready to leave for a 12 hour flight to Cape Town, South Africa. I turned my back for a few minutes. Patrick decided he had just ONE more small job ……
It’s going to be beautiful when it’s all done, but did it really have to happen as we were about to leave??

A reflection on our summer travelling the Thames

We spent the summer of 2025 exploring the River Thames, cruising slowly between historic towns and peaceful stretches of countryside. It was quieter than we expected, allowing us to moor in beautiful locations and spend our days exploring on foot or by bicycle.

Evenings were often spent around the barbecue, enjoying good food, good company and more than a few sundowners as the sun dipped below the horizon. Friends joined us for parts of the journey, making an already special summer even more memorable.

It was a season of slow travel, simple pleasures and unforgettable moments aboard Deux Poissons. We cannot wait to do it all again.

Here are a few snapshots of our special time

Through Teddington and onto London

It was another early start today, and 10 or 11 locks. We plan to reach Teddington at about 14h00 and will stay overnight there. I was quite emotional about it.
For years we had discussed this trip; the UK leg and then onto France. It felt like it was never going to happen but we persevered and in August 2024 we said goodbye to Portsmouth, made our way round the bottom of England and up the Thames, through London, reaching the non-tidal part of the river Thames and Teddington, on Friday 30 August 2024.
Now as a complete co-incidence, 1 year later to the day, we are back in Teddington on our way down through London.
It has been a mixed year and I didn’t want to spend too much time unpacking it all, but needless to say it felt like we had been on the Thames River for much longer than 1 year!

The weather decided to co-operate and it turned quite sunny. The lock-keepers on the other hand all seemed to take the day off, so it was a full exercise day for me but its not too bad in the sunshine. We ate while underway and we got to Teddington with time to spare.

Patrick then asked “why are we waiting around?” He had a quick check on tides and times and suggested we keep going. We could get to Richmond lock for the tide (we can only go through that lock on high tide) and then it would be a few hours until we reached St Katherine’s dock. So we did just that. We had to hang around Richmond for about an hour for the tide and met up with a fellow boat festival traveller. He was heading to the show and so we travelled in tandem, which is always nice. We got to St Kat’s by about 19:00 and settled in. It was a lovely trip down, passing all the iconic buildings and parts of London that we only knew from “the land”. Seeing them from the water offered an entirely different perspective and was a fitting way to mark one year since our first arrival at Teddington.

Off to London Town and St Katherine's Dock

We were offered a space at the annual St Katharine Docks Classic Boat Festival this year. It is described as a yearly boating extravaganza with an expected 60 beautiful vintage and exquisitely preserved vessels. These include the war heroes, the Dunkirk Little Ships. This festival is something we have thought about doing for a few years now and we were keen to show Deux Poissons off in all her glory as well as have a close look at all those classic boats which have inspired us over the years.

It was going to be a 3 day trip to get to St Kat’s which is situated just below Tower Bridge and right in the centre of London (Oh and about 24 locks). Needless to say we were excited about this trip.

In true English style, day one was a grey miserable rainy day, only to be brightened up by a Pride Parade at one of the locks. It took about 12 hours to get from Reading to Maidenhead and through 11 locks, which fortunately were mostly operated by a lock-keeper. A seafood chowder was a welcome evening meal and an early night for the start of the next leg.